Day 13 | 29 September

Donovaly - Slovenská Ľupča - Banská Bystrica (cycle route 042) - Skalka - Kremnica

• Summary: 64 km / 1246 m ↗️ / 1792 m ↘️

This was a day of long, thrilling descents and even longer, grueling climbs. We began our journey in the well-known ski resort of Donovaly, nestled in the scenic Low Tatras. The morning air was crisp, and the forest trails beckoned with the promise of adventure. As we made our way through the dense woodland paths, the silence of the forest was broken only by the hum of our bikes and the rustling of leaves under our tires. After a steady ride, we emerged from the trees and arrived at the imposing Lupča Castle, proudly overlooking the Hron River valley—a magnificent reminder of the region's medieval history. From there, we followed the Hron River, its calm flow accompanying us as we descended into the heart of Banská Bystrica, a town once famed for its rich mining tradition. The streets were alive with history—colorful facades, charming squares, and the distant toll of church bells creating an atmosphere that seemed to pause time. We took a moment to explore the town's landmarks, catch our breath, and fuel up for the next challenge. Because what came next was not for the faint of heart: the steepest climb of the day, and possibly the toughest of our entire cycling journey. For nearly three relentless hours, we pushed our way uphill through the Kremnica Mountains, following winding paths and former ski slopes. The gradient was unforgiving, our legs burned, and the summit seemed endlessly out of reach—but the sense of determination among us never faded. Bit by bit, pedal by pedal, we finally reached the Skalka tourist center—tired, sore, but filled with an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. From Skalka, the road mercifully pointed downhill. We launched into a fast-paced descent, the wind rushing past us as we sped down the steep slopes, weaving through the trees and feeling the exhilaration of gravity doing its part. And then, just as the sun began its slow dip toward the horizon, we rolled into our final destination: the historic town of Kremnica, known as the golden city. A day of highs and lows—literally and figuratively—but most of all, a day we won't soon forget.

Varga Gábor

This bikepacking tour is part of Explore the World on Two Wheels, a project co-financed by the European Commission through the Erasmus+ programme.